Tag Archives: bespoke tailoring

Difficult models becoming easy with Seamly2D

Seems difficult? Constructing wrap trousers has never been so easy!

All you need is basic trousers pattern.

Then use Flipping objects by line instrument.

Just flip the point of the central dart along the bunt line.

Use Point intersect line and axis instrument to draw a wrap sketch line.

Flip the upper edge along the wrap line.

Finally use Rotate objects instrument.

And rotate upper edge, bunt and inseam line over the lower point of the wrap sketch line.

Draw all missing lines and curves.

Here is the final pattern layout…

Enjoy your pattern!

Personalisation of patterns in Seamly2d

One of the main drawbacks of ready-to-wear clothes is that even a very short list of measurement (e.g. chest, waist and hips) shows that few customers have the dimensions to fit a RTW clothes size exactly.  So while it may fit well in some areas, it may be too long, short, loose or tight in others.

That’s why many people prefer to visit a bespoke tailor to have a personalised pattern made from their individual measurements.

In my day-to-day tailoring activities I use 23 basic measurements and in some cases may use up to 15 additional measurements to make perfect fit clothes.

Addionally I make some sort of mesurements analysis to discover various peculiarities that will affect my pattern.

Let’s make an example:

Here you can see the pattern drafted for a standardised customer with no or insignificant peculiarities.

And here is the same pattern drafted for a customer with round-shouldered back.

So, what’s about Seamly2d? I input individual measurements into SeamlyMe, use information section to store the results of measurement analysis (some of my students make this analysis using formula wizard in SeamlyMe) and than just upload individual measurement to any pattern I already have.

That I update increments to fit the peculiarities I noticed for that customer, and hit Refresh and Seamly2d makes the remaining work ))) So, I receive personalised pattern which in most cases will require no changes after fitting.

Do you prefer to personalise your patterns or make standardised clothes?


Best Instruments to Make Raglan Sleeves

In my previous blogposts I forgot to mention one more advantage of using Valentina Patternmaking Software – a friendly multilingual Valentina forum community. Should you have any question or idea (concerning patternmaking difficulties, compatibility problems, etc.) you may write it immediately to the forum and receive almost immediate advice, solution or support.

For example, this week I have been striving to find the topic for my following blogpost. And suddenly I’ve discovered a discussion about the best way to draw a raglan sleeve in Valentina. Actually, there are several methods to do that, and it will take me many hours to tell about all of them.

But now I would like to show how easy it could be to implement one of raglan construction method in Valentina.

So, I have pattern pieces for back and front bodice.

And a pattern piece for a usual set-in sleeve.

Then I just draw my raglan part on the bodice (I have an arched raglan).

And use “Move Object Tool” to move this raglan part to the sleeve.

And finally I use a “Rotate Object Tool” to glue my raglan part to the cap of the sleeve.

I repeat the same with the front pattern piece and draw four additional curves to finally shape my raglan sleeve.

Here is my raglan blouse in Details Mode.



And here is the final result.

Colorblock Dress Pattern with Seamly2D

You cannot even imagine how easy it is to make a pattern for a colorblock dress like this in Seamly2D Patternmaking System. 
All you need is to have a basic dress pattern and to choose a suitable increments.
Valentina will recalculate and refresh the basic pattern itself based on the data you feed to it. 
If you need to transfer the darts you may do that in one or two clicks.
If you need to mirror your pattern, you may easily do it at any time
 You may contruct any sizes and shapes using a wide range of Seamly2D instruments
And may enjoy the pattern pieces in the Details Mode
Very easy and convenient, isn’t it?

Me and Valentina

Did you like my recent blogpost about the Duffle Coat pattern in Valentina? I hope, you did! Now let me introduce myself and tell you why I’m a “Valentina geek”.

My name is Yulia, I live in Minsk, Belarus and I’m a former investment banker upshifted to a bespoke tailor several years ago. I’m obsessed with sewing and currently release one to five garments every day (yes, every day). I work with individual customers (bespoke tailoring), with various designers (rtw and capsule collections), have some charity sewing projects and respond to a new challenge for me – pattern making and sewing lessons.

That’s why, paper-pencil-eraser is not for me (it is good for lesser volumes, but not for my workload). I might choose any pattermaking software, but stopped at Valentina in 2013 and since then have been enjoying using it for my business.

It is free and open-source, so I don’t have problems with the way I use it: I may freely create patterns, store them on my computer, sell or freely distribute them, share my patternmaking activity via Skype, Youtube, webinars, etc.

I can use any patternmaking system or method (Mueller&Son’s, Bunka’s, ESMOD, any them), I can even invent my own way of patternmaking feeding Valentina with any measurement, increment or formula.

Measurements… I can upload and store any measurement I want, link them with a customer, add comments on body peculiarities, etc, and they won’t be lost.

And the most useful: when I tackle with rtw garments of various sizes or similar type of clothes for different customers I need to create the exact pattern only once for one customer or for one size. And then everything I need is to feed measures of another customer or size to Valentina and it will create a new pattern based on the new data automatically (you see A-U-T-O-M-A-T-I-C-A-L-L-Y).

I will not describe all patternmaking ‘must-have’ features like generating layouts, adding grain indicator of pattern name, automated splitting of pattern layout for A4 tiles, friendly support and forum community, etc. Actually, I hardly can say what the latest version of Valentina is missing.

I’m here to promote Valentina to the professional society and if you are still looking a patternmaking software just stop, follow http://valentina-project.org , download and try Valentina. I guarantee, you will like it!


How a Duffle Coat Looks Like

Would you like to know how a duffle coat may look like? I don’t mean the exterior, I would like to show you how the duffle coat begins. So, let me open my Valentina pattern file and show you.

A bit messy, isn’t it?

Actually this is just a basic pattern for outerwear and I can manipulate it at any way I want.

For example, this will be a back pattern piece
And this one will become a storm flap
Here is the front pattern piece
In Details Mode you can see a place for the patch pocket. I may add any detail I want, even make notches for buttons and holes, and will actually do this after the fitting
And here is the front storm flap
And this is the cut-off flare
The hood…
And the hood gusset
Upper part of the sleeve
And the lower one
And this is how that all looks like in the Details mode

What is good about Valentina, it’s that it took me very little time to create this wonderful pattern. To be honest, I’ve spent much more time writing this post than drawing it.

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